
I write this in the hope that readers will take in the sheer explanatory power of the Cologne Cathedral, a frozen hymn and may one day behold her in quiet reverence.
In addition to nature surprising us with mild showers and bursts of sunshine on our ride to Cologne, we surprised ourselves with food stops and by prompting kids in passing cars to reciprocate our waves and smiles. Occasionally, Navina’s playlist let our vocal cords take a much-needed rest.The changing colours outside the window reminded me of the cliché: change is constant. Occasional drizzles and rainbows above the faraway meadows led me to where I belonged, ‘the land of fairytales’. Navina gave me an account of how she felt upon seeing the Kölner Dom for the first time. “Its magnificence engulfed everything,” she said. She wasn’t expecting something of that size to appear before her soon after alighting from the train. Her friends had taken her there without giving her any real heads-up about how she might feel. She kept telling me, over and over again, exactly how it looked and how my brain might process it. Maybe she thought she was doing me a service. Whatever her intention, I enjoyed the way she narrated that place of defiant beauty. I was ready to handle the Cologne Phenomenon. Before me, I saw it, humongous and mighty. My eyes stuck to the spires as if they were gospel rising higher to the heavens. Words failed me. I began walking toward it; then, in a sudden frenzy, I broke into a run. Navina followed suit. The cold wind felt like an invisible palm that brushed against my face, blowing my hair away from my forehead before pausing one precious moment to whisper “Agape.” Both of us turned performance visitors. We twirled and went merry-go-round to the entrance. It wasn’t just excitement that drove me, but the staggering thought of how I would even begin to process such an awe-inspiring, majestic architecture. It was truly one of a kind that would cut across all generations and cultures and likely earn more aura over the decades as a timeless testament to human imagination and reverence for the spiritual realm.
The soot-black appearance gives the entire neighborhood a “thriller” aura. My imagination stalled for a moment when I learned that this was built using 50 different types of stone, and that the black patina results from accumulated grime caused by air pollution, coal heating, and industrialization, combined with the chemical reaction of rain with its sandstone. I wished my ears had a filter to block any information that might meddle with my fantasies.

The queue to the interior wasn’t too long. Eavesdropping gave me an idea that the queue comprised everyday tourists, once-in-a-lifetime visitors, architecture enthusiasts, history buffs, and travel bloggers. It gave me enough time to imagine the visual feast awaiting me, given the number of architects, master builders, and the labour of 150,000 people over 756 years. For a structure to survive fourteen bombings is no trivial matter in architecture, but it is a possibility with divine intervention. Thus, it can pass off as an old-world charm, a new-world aggressive monument, and a sacred marvel. Immediately after I stepped in, the fascinating stained-glass windows on either side caught my attention. As per the tour guide, those on the left were old and those on the right were new. To me, all seemed fresh and vibrant. I could discern no flaw. The great Bible Window behind the altar glowed with brilliance. Crafted in 1260 CE, it tells the story of Scripture in color, the Old Testament unfolding on the left, the New Testament shining on the right, like two halves of a divine conversation. Standing before it, you can almost hear the cathedral breathe, the sunlight transforming into storytelling. For the countless people who once couldn’t read the Bible, these windows were their sermons in glass. And for someone with a vivid, hyperphantasic mind,it’s a living vision. Along with the light that pours through the medieval glass, it’s easy to hear that ancient whisper echoing through the nave: “Let there be light.”

I can’t remember the number of times I’ve decided that there is nothing as marvelous as the hues of sunlight and no man-made object can rival nature’s lights. One look at the ‘Symphony of Light’ and I froze. All the other facts that were told went over my head. I was spellbound.Right away, I knew if there is something that can complement natural wonders of light such as auroras, atmospheric and solar phenomena or meteor showers, then this is it. Silently, I chanted ‘sun, sun, sun, here it comes’ more than a dozen times. The Beatles would surely forgive me. Lights danced their way into the cathedral along with the fairies of the sun, moon and stars enveloping me. In a sense, my quest for identity was stirred up and my soul was ready to be moulded again. With my eyes still closed, I thought it was nowhere, but there, where I stood, could imagination take on a whole new dimension urging anyone to observe keenly and rediscover one’s soul. The very fact that I am able to recall from memory so much from my visit five months ago bears testimony to the evocativeness and impact this cathedral can have on a person. But for Navina’s prodding, I wouldn’t have moved an inch.
The Shrine of the Three Kings kindled my curiosity even before we reached the Kölner Dom. Throughout the car ride, we discussed what they carried for baby Jesus, how well they managed as celestial navigators, choice of gifts, if they travelled together or separately and duration of travel. Little did the other two know that I was very much part of the discussion only to prove one of the wisemen named Gathaspa was Indian. Wowie! Zowie! There it was, the sarcophagus as if it just walked in from the world’s finest smithy. The spiritual opulence of the wise men’s hearts was depicted in gold, silver, jewels and beads. ‘Visually intense’ is the right word. Caught in the moment, I hummed one of my favorite Christmas carols ‘We three kings of orient are’. Another perfect stranger beside me joined in. It didn’t surprise me that certain people around me shared my amazement.

Walking through the cathedral, I found myself abruptly halted by a wooden Crucifix which seemed to be partially gilded. The one who had hummed along with me just minutes earlier told me it was the Gero Crucifix. Before I could be impressed by his apparent knowledge, she simply held up the pamphlet in her hand.Carved from oak and dating back to the 10th century, it is one of the oldest surviving crucifixes in Germany. The crucifix itself and the crossbeam are believed to be original, while the radiant sun behind the cross and the marble altar were later additions. She read out facts from the leaflet. Standing before it stirred a complicated tide of emotions in me. I realized that my inability to pray in front ofor toa cross was one thing. But the deeper feeling that rose within me was anger, a sharp awareness of the brutality of crucifixion and the haunting question of how an empire could devise such a barbaric form of punishment. Yet, beyond the conflict of thoughts, I couldn’t ignore the extraordinary artistry before me. Whoever sculpted this crucifix was a genius. The figure of Christ is rendered with striking humanity: a heavy, sagging body, a distended abdomen, and a head slumped forward in exhaustion and pain. It is not an idealized image but a deeply emotive one, an unflinching portrayal of suffering that feels almost painfully real. This Crucifix will compel anybody to look, to feel, and to confront the weight of the story it carries.
We paced in silence, whispered, added visual elements and sounds to discuss the magnificence in a just way, posed, and sat on the dark wooden pews in almost all aisles, unaware that we were saving energy for the tower climb that awaited us, to go find out from the spires who and what kept them standing even while the massive structure underneath was crushed by the bombing of World War II. In my view, if the spires survived 14 heavy aerial bombs and incendiary devices, it is definitely something beyond human comprehension. Isn’t this a clean claim to immortality! A panoramic view of Cologne was never my interest. I decided to climb up for three reasons: 1. To review my stamina. 2. An unforeseen yet possible apparition that would explain the secret behind the mettle of the spires. 3. To make sure the spires have stopped reaching for the skies. “No lift, no joke” at the entrance pricked my ego. My heart screamed, “533 steps, here I come.” Expectedly, the stone spiral staircase seemed unending, exciting, and not so invigorating. Just when I couldn’t do it anymore, I found myself by St. Peter’s Bell. It looked like the much-awaited spot to take a break and catch a breath. We were only halfway up. Climbing down didn’t even look like a choice, so I rested more than I wanted to. Meanwhile, I noticed that what began in 1248 CE seemed still unfinished or renovated. I could see certain sections of it under scaffolding. The thought that I was nowhere near the top bothered my head more than my leg muscles, which were already crying for an explanation. Flights of metal stairs summoned me, and I followed half-heartedly. By then, I wasn’t counting the number of steps. Someone in the front sighed, “finally,” when we came to a narrow spiral metal staircase. For the first time ever, the adverb “finally” made sense to me as a powerful temporal marker. During my final push to the very top, I panted and suffered near asphyxiation. Whether or not I had the energy for a secret tête-à-tête with the spires, or the disposition to handle an apparition, was questionable. And there it was! An external stone walkway traversing the circumference of the southern tower, allowing us to circle the top and fathom the views through the intricate Gothic tracery and mesh wiring. The River Rhine in its splendour greeted us. Eudaimonia! In one gasp, I took in all the oxygen that was needed to rejuvenate every cell in my aching body. Even as I posed for pictures, I was conscious of the equivalent descent that awaited me. As I stood staring at the Rhine, the whooshing wind brought me whispers from the spires. When the bombers came, Frau Holle, the keeper of the winter clouds, shook her feather bed, and the clouds thickened around the spires like a cloak. The pilots saw the silhouettes, but the air shifted strangely around the towers. Currents twisted. Aim faltered. Bombs slipped from their paths and thundered elsewhere instead.

“Elsa, ready to descend?” Navina and Christian chorused, so perfectly in sync that I was convinced they had rehearsed it.A hot sit-down meal was the only thing on my mind. On our way down, the Vietnamese proverb, “When eating a fruit, think of the person who planted the tree,” danced through my thoughts. This masterpiece we call the Kölner Dom, which has stood the test of time, was the best idea that landed on a receptive mind. How marvelously that vision has been chiseled and polished with such finesse! The vision of Archbishop Konrad von Hochstaden reflects the perfect balance between creation and evolution.
Back at the Domplatte, I stumbled upon a few friendly photographers and a couple in a rickshaw to whom I turned a tourist guide for a few minutes. I amused them a bit by trying to cycle them around. I leave the place after establishing a passionate relationship with the Cathedral and everything in it, top to bottom.
When I started writing this piece, I was overwhelmed to the extent that I was almost convinced I can’t do justice to The Gothic. After almost five or six minutes of staring at the blank virginity of my notebook, my thoughts swirled and words flowed. Ithaka replayed in my memory
‘But don’t hurry the journey at all
Better if it lasts for years’
Trust me, Hohe Domkirche St. Peter und Maria is a living, breathingmonument that stands as a testimony to how humans visualized the majesty and holiness of their creator.
* All photographs by Dr Elsa Lycias Joel









